Escapism, Fantasy And Punk: London Fashion Week Fall 2021
Like the rest of the world, fashion has had to adapt with this season’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collections shown entirely online. It’s therefore no surprise that escapism and positivity were big themes for designers. Other changes this season included a reduced week of shows – only 4 days in total – and menswear featured alongside womenswear in a fusion never seen before at LFW, creating an original, gender neutral programme of presentations. What didn’t change was the extraordinary display of talent by designers showcasing inspiring collections, providing a much needed break from our current reality.
Erdem took us to the ballet, inspired by his time working at the Royal Opera House (the designer created costumes for the Royal Ballet’s Corybantic Games in 2018.) Feather headpieces, buttoned cardigans tucked into pleated skirts and knitted leggings fit for any dancer swept down the dimly lit catwalk, creating an atmospheric feel, mirroring the exhilarating mood backstage at a ballet before the curtain rises. Designers couldn’t get enough of dance this season. Ballerina-esque pink bustiers were spotted at Marques Almeida and tulle skirts at Molly Goddard, whilst tough-girl black tutus were paired with leather jackets and biker boots at Simone Rocha– rebellious but nonetheless beautiful.
For Ricardo Tisci, Creative Director at Burberry, this season played host to his first ever standalone menswear collection for the British brand. The iconic trench coat synonymous with the brand was celebrated in a variety of colours and tartan prints, whilst handy backpacks and utilitarian shirts were paired with gender neutral pleated skirts and baseball jackets. It was a first for 24 year old Central Saint Martins graduate Harris Read too; debuting at LFW and presenting a collection with a ‘fluid fixation’ between mens and womenswear.
Eudon Choi transported us to the stunning Swiss Alps, in a collection inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s holiday Chalet in Gstaad. Chic knitwear in icy tones, ruched dresses and 60s influenced suits all featured prominently. “I want it to be cosy and easy to wear but I still want it to be fun,” Choi explained whilst speaking to Vogue Runway. French rococo reigned supreme for Vivienne Westwood who took audiences on a journey back in time to an era of romance. Prints taken from the 1743 painting ‘Daphnis and Chloe’ by François Boucher were splashed across mini dresses, a-symmetric skirts and corsets - sailor hats were also plentiful.
And what would winter be without a few vibrant pops of colour? Bora Aksu, Chopova Lowena and Mark Fast all agreed bold is best with bright pinks, neon yellows and clashing colours taking centre stage. Roksanda Ilinčić didn’t disappoint with her trademark love of colour. On a neon bright orange jumpsuit, the designer exclaimed, “this colour is insane; it almost doesn’t translate digitally. But in real life it’s, wow,” as told to Vogue Runway.
So what will we be wearing post pandemic? Be prepared to ditch the joggers and don a tulle tutu!