Has COVID-19 Made Couture More Accessible? TFLE Report On Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2021
With numerous European countries under nationwide lockdown and France itself abiding to strict curfews, it became clear from the outset that due to Covid19, the Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2021 presentations would be forced to adapt this season.
Chanel SS21 Haute Couture | Chanel by Anton Corbijn
The elite world of Couture, once only accessible to clients and fashion editors alike, went digital. Not only could audiences watch virtual shows and presentations via designers own websites and social media feeds, but also directly through the official governing body of couture, The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. As stated in a press release issued by the FHCM, powered by Launchmetrics this season was, “accessible to the general public while retaining spaces reserved for professionals.” This isn’t the first time couture shows have reverted to online only. In July 2020, in compliance with French health regulations, the Autumn/Winter 2020 couture collections were shown online. Unprecedented for the world of couture, it asks the question if there hadn’t been a global pandemic would presentations be so accessible to the wider public.
This season, 28 fashion houses took part in the SS21 calendar, with notable designers opting out of the schedule. “As the Covid 19 situation is worsening and due to Covid restrictions we have taken the decision not to proceed with our spring/summer 2021 Couture collection and presentation,” a simple statement from Ralph & Russo read, whilst Elie Saab CEO, Elie Saab Jr explained to WWD that due to a surge of Covid19 cases in Lebanon, it would be incredibly difficult to proceed as planned. “The haute couture collection is ready, but there’s the whole shooting logistic, which is quite complicated. We decided to take a small break and wait for the right time to shoot it and to present it to the public.”
The finale at Chanel SS21 Haute Couture | Chanel by Anton Corbijn
For the designers who decided the show must go on, audiences were treated to a creative array of stellar presentations. Kim Jones made his eagerly awaited debut at Fendi, calling in models Kate Moss and Bella Hadid, as well as Demi Moore who opened the show in a structured black trouser suit, a nod to Jones’ strengths as a menswear designer. Sheer floor length dresses and statement earrings gave couture a more wearable, free form movement. For Valentino, pungent neon greens and pinks cascaded down the catwalk at the Palazzo Colonna in Rome, accompanied by a fashion film created by Massive Attack’s Robert Del Naja. Wedding bells could be heard at Chanel, with Virginie Viard presenting an intimate celebratory atmosphere, complete with fairy lights and floral bouquets. The show closed with a white horse carrying model Lola Nicon, resplendent in an ivory stain wedding gown. The horse theme continued at Dior, with renaissance-esque models posing alongside an ethereal white horse, showcasing tarot inspired dresses and intricate gold capes, while Giambattista Valli offered billowing tulle gowns in pastel shades.
Fendi-Couture SS21 | Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
For many clients usually a firm feature on the front row at couture shows, adapting to this new digital outlook will be a sharp contrast to the traditional couture agenda. With fittings and re-sees cancelled until further notice and strict travel restrictions in place, it remains to be seen if this brave new digital world for Haute Couture will become a permanent fixture going forth.